Sunday, September 23, 2012

The Welcome Party


       “To David and Jorden, and to a great year at Izumigaoka!” Omote-Sensei piped cheerfully as overfilled beer glasses clinked and a resounding “kampai!” rang through the quaint, traditional-Japanese style dining room. We sat with legs folded at the low table as the servers delivered trays of fresh sashimi, tuna-topped salad, steamed salmon, rice balls, steak, edamame, and battered shrimp. It was my first Japanese drinking party--or enkai--held in honor of welcoming David, my fellow ALT, and me to Izumigaoka. The twelve English teachers at our school (yes, twelve--remember how at your high school there was that one French teacher or that one Spanish professor?) all sacrificed their Friday night plans to toast the newbies and enjoy some fine Japanese cuisine. Enkais are the once-or-twice-a-year opportunity for teachers who normally work 12 hour+ days to unwind, talk freely about their opinions and interests, and of course, drink until their hearts are content. Small talk in the office is nearly taboo on a day-to-day basis; in Japan, the teachers who work the longest days and maintain the busiest agendas are the ones respected most. I suppose “work hard, party hard,” might be a good mantra to sum it up. All that to say, it was an interesting spectacle on Friday night to watch my otherwise reticent colleagues let the conversations flow just as generously as the beer. They suddenly had so much interest in why I chose Japan, what my initial impressions were, and how education in America compared to that of Japan. The room was loud and jovial--far more so than I could ever imagine a room of Japanese school teachers to be. At the end of the evening, I offered a brief thank-you speech and the teachers, all ruddy and beaming, dipped their heads and clapped. 
Monday morning has not yet come, but I think it’s safe to assume it will be business as usual. 
I’ve had two full weeks of regular classes now, and it’s been quite a roller coaster.  This past week, David and I were given the responsibility of creating a term exam for the Oral Communication (first-grader) course. We finally finished it on Friday after five days of extensive collaboration, but lemme tell you, it wasn’t easy. I find that typically, my colleagues are not forthcoming with information; rather, I have to seek it. In addition, they consider it rude to be direct about their expectations or desires. So as you can imagine, tasks are often completed rather inefficiently, and even then, often not to the standards of the person who assigned them. Daniel and I joke that working as ALTs sometimes feels like playing a game of charades. “Okay, it’s a bird? No, okay...it has three syllables? It flies? Does it fly? It sounds like…‘trapeze’?” Sometimes I will do an assignment for a teacher five or six times before they seem happy with it; I just have to keep bringing them drafts until the look on their face tells me, “Yes, this is what I wanted you to do in the first place.”
Fortunately, that’s probably the worst thing about my job. The students are such joys; working at a high-academic school, though busy, certainly has its perks. I went to a speech contest last weekend in which three of my English club students participated, and they walked away with the first, second, and third place medals proudly in their hands. These kids genuinely want to learn English, earn high marks, and go to the finest universities in Japan where they can become doctors, lawyers, and engineers. They want to travel the world and speak multiple languages. One student, Taka, comes and visits my desk nearly every day. “I enjoy speaking to you in English very much,” he tells me. Taka wants to be an engineer, and I’d say he’s well on his way. His English is phenomenal; the other day he used the words “liquid nitrogen” to explain an experiment to me. He reads physics books for leisure--but get this, he reads them in English. Can you imagine reading a physics book in Japanese? Yeah, me neither. As if understanding  the concepts of terminal velocity or centrifugal force in English aren’t difficult already. 
The students at Izumigaoka are unwavering in their dedication to academia--sometimes to a fault. I like to ask my students what their weekend plans are, and thus far, I have never heard an answer outside of “studying.” I’ll let you know as soon as one of them admits to a video game marathon or an all-night karaoke bash, but something tells me I won’t hear that at Izumigaoka. 
My weekends, however, are quite leisurely. I get to spend Saturdays with my copilot, exploring our new city, experimenting with strange cuisine, hanging out laundry, decorating our cozy apartment, and, as of late, watching way too many episodes of 24. Sundays are the best--true to its name, Hope House has already been a very promising community for Daniel and I to begin to sink our young, newly-wed roots into. It feels invigorating to become a part of something completely new, completely removed from anyone or anything we’ve ever been a part of before. We didn’t go because a college friend invited us or because it happened to be the only church we could catch a ride to. We went because we decided that we want a marriage rooted and saturated in the Gospel and we can’t very feasibly make that happen without a church community. We went because we are young and stupid and we need a place to be sharpened and guided. Because we are selfish and we need a place of forgiveness. Because we are lazy and we need a place where we can sacrifice and serve. For the first time, I am beginning to explore what it truly means to be part of a church community, and I’m thanking Jesus for his mercy in the process.


P.S. We apologize for the shortage of pictures thus far--more to come soon!

Saturday, September 1, 2012

The Festival.

"Take it all in," my fellow ALT Bryan told me on Thursday morning, "because this is the happiest you'll see your students all year."  We were walking around the courtyard at my school, going from food tent to food tent and seeing what was for sale.  The space was riddled with junior-high and high school students, all talking excitedly, gesturing, laughing, and shouting.



To signal the end of summer vacation and the start of the final trimester in Japanese schools, each high school holds their festival to showcase student talents, creativity, and culinary skill.  Ours was a two-day affair, kicking off Thursday morning with an assembly.  The school band took the stage and struck up a few tunes, playing at a calibre I would assign to a college group.  Being a former band geek myself, I couldn't help but marvel at their instrumentation.  In addition to hum-drum flutes, clarinets, trumpets, and tubas, their lineup boasted six french horns, two upright basses, a few oboes, bassoons, and a full percussion section including chimes, bells, timpani, drum set, and auxiliary.

The room itself was not unlike the American gymnasiums I'm familiar with.  Tarps covered the hardwood floor of the basketball/volleyball courts, with hundreds of chairs set up for the student body.  The heat, as usual, hovered over us all in a menacing and quite annoying manner.  Hands worked relentlessly with paddle fans to keep faces cool, but won only small victories.  My own fan waved furiously in front of my body, staving off the suffocating humidity of the Japanese summer.

"You've never seen so much black hair," Bryan commented as the band packed up and the school principal took to the microphone to officially begin the day's activities.  I had to agree.


After the principal had his say, students hopped on the stage to advertise their various projects.  Japanese students are divided into homerooms, and each homeroom had prepared something for the festival.  First-year students (the equivalent of 10th grade in the US) had various dances and routines to be seen on Friday morning's assembly.  Second years (11th graders) were in charge of the food tents, which ranged from fried chicken to waffles-n-ice-cream and yaki soba, fried noodles.  Third years (12th graders) had transformed their home classrooms into various attractions.  Among the most impressive were:

-The roller coaster room, in which the students had stacked desks, laid plywood down as tracks, built a few cars out of wood and swivel wheels, and then pushed other students around the track, up to the top of the desks, and then off a large incline and into a big picture of the english teacher of their choice, finally arresting the runaway cart with a huge pile of blankets and cushions.

-The "ghost house" (or haunted house) in which students built a maze of horrors for other students to walk through, complete with mask-wearing psychos, blood splatters, sound effects, and various bloody body parts as decoration.  This wasn't your mother's haunted house - it was legitimately horrifying.


I kept coming back to the fact that none of this -- students hovering over hot grills, blood-and-gore, or roller coasters which ended in concrete walls covered in cushions -- would be allowed in the US.  "They're not as sue-happy here," Bryan explained simply.  Apparently Suki's mom wouldn't come after someone's head if her daughter got a bloody nose from running too fast through a house of horrors constructed by her peers.  Oh, and side note: there's no law here requiring orange "caps" on fake guns, and there's also no rule against bringing fake guns to school, meaning I saw several students running down the halls brandishing completely real-looking pistols.  Or maybe they were real... I couldn't tell, and no one seemed to care.

The food was delicious.  Bryan and I meandered around for about an hour, trying various dishes.  I even indulged in a traditional Japanese festival food, the english translation of which means literally "octopus balls."  But don't worry - it's just one of those unfortunate translations.  The dish itself is made by taking a bit of octopus and cooking it into a ball of dough along with various seasonings, then garnishing it with barbecue sauce and mayonnaise.  When you come to visit, I'll make sure you try some.

Friday afternoon saw student groups taking the large outdoor stage -- erected in the middle of the courtyard -- to dazzle their peers with their karaoke abilities or fun little games which required crowd participation.  The headlining act was a group of high school students who had formed a rock band and who pumped up the audience with various US and Japanese hits.

A closing assembly on Friday evening signaled the end of it all, and the students began cleaning up the massive havoc they'd wreaked on the school over the past two days.  I helped haul a fews desks to their rightful places in the upper stories of the school, then headed home to begin my weekend.

I had my first enkai, or work party, that night.  The English department welcomed me into the school by taking me out to an Italian restaurant in downtown Kanazawa, although it was like no Italian restaurant I had ever seen.  The dishes included octopus and grapefruit salad, fresh raw oyster, raw salted pork, garlic bread, crab linguini, and fresh raw shrimp with avocado.  Oh, and it was all-you-can-drink for the first two hours.  The Japanese love their drinking.  We finished off the night with espresso and coffee, welcome speeches from various teachers, a self-introduction by yours truly, a few tips from the other two ALTs at my school, and finally a closing speech.

Classes start Monday.  It's been an interesting few weeks getting set up and settled in, but the real fun is about to begin.


Thanks for reading!


-Daniel