Thursday, January 23, 2014

Halfway Through; The New Normal

What do our blog and a city bus have in common?  You wait forever for one to show up, and then two come.

The other day, my supervisor swept by my desk and left me a form with a smile and an "onegaishimasu!" (You can think of it as a polite one-word way to say, "please do this!")  Glancing down, I saw that it was none other than the famous re-contracting agreement.  Having discussed this with Jorden some months ago, and coming to the agreement that three years is the perfect amount of time for us to spend teaching English in Japan, I slapped on my signature and handed it back in.

I glanced at the Lego-block calendar on my desk and thought, "Wow, we're halfway done." Then I thought, "I should write a blog to commemorate this special occasion." 

English teaching is serious business.
But I got sidetracked on wikihow.com and forgot about it.  Then today I found myself with some spare time, and decided to get it done.

Having been here for a year and half, I think one of the most interesting things is what we've come to see as normal.  When we first arrived, we were dazzled by everything - the people, the buildings, the language, you name it.  Now, however, it all seems so... normal.  Consequently, this is one of the best reasons you out there should come visit us in Japan - when we have friends and family come here, we get to experience our Japanese life through your eyes, and see all the unique and exciting stuff anew.  Book your tickets today!

I brainstormed for a bit and came up with the following items as good examples of what we now view as our "new normal."  Enjoy!

-Temples and Shrines
When we first got here, the temples and shrines dotting the city around us always caught our eyes.  We'd pause to look curiously into the gardens and gaze at the lanterns and statues, often snapping pictures.  These days, we hardly notice them.  There are no less than twenty temples on the route we usually take to get downtown.  I guess you could equate it to churches in the south.  A Japanese friend of ours studied for a few years in Georgia, and he mentioned how strange it was to him at first that there was a church on every corner.  Now, we'll breeze right past a sprawling temple with gardens, lanterns, and huge stone statues without a second glance.

-Carrying Cash
I don't have a Japanese credit card.  I don't think our bank offers debit cards.  The only time I use a card these days is to buy plane tickets and shop on Amazon.com, usually for digital content, and I use our US account.  Everywhere in Japan runs on cash.  You buy train tickets with cash, pay for hotel rooms in cash, and even pay cash-on-delivery for goods from Amazon.jp.  Most of our recurring bills are set up to automatically withdraw from our bank account, but not all of them; I still go to the nearest convenience store with our electricity bill and some money to keep the lights on   (oh, yeah... and you can pay your bills at convenience stores.  That's something else that's totally normal for us now.)  As such, whenever Jorden and I need to make a big purchase like train tickets to Osaka or a block of cheese, we'll grab what can only be described as a gangster wad of cash and go on our way without batting an eyelash.

-No Wifi
While we technically have the capability, since a co-worker of mine gave us a wireless router, we don't have wifi in our house.  I've been able to find two places in our city of 450,000 people where you can get no-questions-asked free wifi.  Many places like McDonald's, Stabucks, and other cafes, will advertise free wifi, but you have to set up an account with whatever internet provider they have first, and even then it tends to be limited to a set amount of time.  Point is, it's a lot harder to come by than it is in the States, and it feels completely normal now.  I no longer have the expectation that a coffee shop or restaurant will have wifi.

-Beginnings and Endings
Japanese culture is really into set, clearly defined beginnings and endings to things.  Each class starts with an opening greeting and ends with a farewell.  All the students will stand up and I'll say "Hello, everyone" "Hello, Daniel" "How are you today?" "I'm fine, thank you.  And you?" "I'm great, thanks."  Then at the end of class, "Good-bye everyone!" "Goodbye, Daniel."  Each meeting starts with someone saying in Japanese, "This meeting is now starting" and ends with someone saying "This meeting is now ended."  Even our church service starts with a deacon saying, for example, (in Japanese), "This Kanazawa Baptist Church's meeting on January 19th, 2014, is now beginning."  Perfectly normal.

-Work Parties
For those of you out there who work in schools (or if you don't, just remember back to when you were in school), when's the last time you and your co-workers kicked all the students out of the school at the end of the day, then, not caring about secrecy, loaded up on a bus and spent an entire night drinking?  Because for me, it was December 21st, and I've got another one coming up in March.  The work parties here are just part of the gig.  I mean, we're not being loud about it and saying "everyone leave, we're going out drinking" or anything.  But everyone knows exactly where all the teachers go on that Friday after the big test week (funny, it's the teachers and not the students who need a break after testing times.)  Nothing strange about that.

-The Things We Say
Japanese is really, really different from English.  Different writing systems, different pronunciation and different syntax.  So obviously, the way they work is hard to compare.  But, there are a few things about Japanese that I originally thought very strange that now we just go along with.  For example, in Japanese you rarely refer to someone using the pronoun "you."  It's considered to be very rude unless you really know what you're doing.  The correct way to refer to someone is by their name or their title.  For example, if I was talking with my co-worker I would say this: "I often eat french fries.  What about Mrs. Fukami?"  I would say this even if I was talking directly to Mrs. Fukami.  Also, we call our Vice-principle, "Vice-principle."  So if I need to ask her a question, I say "Vice-principle, where is the nearest Taco Bell?"  Technically you can just drop the name all together in Japanese since you're talking to them and the subject is therefore inferred, but this is slightly less polite, so I wouldn't do with with my co-workers.

Similarly, the Japanese often strip down grammar to the most simple form.  So if a student enters a room and it's cold, they'll simply say "Cold!"  Or if I tell them I get up at 5:19 in the morning, they'll exclaim, "Early!"

-No Central Heating and No Insulation
This one's kind-of cheating, because I sure as heck still notice it, and it still bugs me.  I will never consider this "normal."  Our house has a wall-mounted heating unit and a kerosene heater.  They have timers and automatic temperature gauges, but I still wake up in the morning seeing my breath, and have to turn on the heater and then wait a good five or ten minutes before emerging from the covers.  Worst of all, if we shut off the heater, the room goes cold easily within 15 minutes due to the thin walls and lack of double-paned glass.  Also, only (certain) classrooms and the staff room are heated in our schools.  The hallways?  Gym?  Bathrooms?  All about the same temperature as outside (right now it's a balmy 39 degrees; when I got to work this morning, it was snowing.)  Even in the classrooms, you have to show up early and turn on the ceiling-mounted heaters... they don't have automatic thermostats or timers.  Added bonus for the summer: absolutely no air conditioning in the classrooms.  And it gets up to 90 degrees here with well over 80% humidity.


So as you can tell, Japan is crazy, unique, and now fairly normal.  We've really enjoyed living here, and we look forward to the next year and a half.  Heck, maybe by then we'll consider shirako to be a normal food.  Maybe.

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Osaka & Bali

     Well hey! Happy New Year! It's been a while since our last Adventure Post, but rest assured the adventures have been continuing steadily.
     Let's see...in November, one of Daniel's friends from Reno, Hans, came out for a rather unconventional Thanksgiving with the Kennestons. We made our overdue first trip to Osaka with him, visiting the stunning Osaka Castle, along with a handful of other sightseeing and shopping hotspots. We also stopped off at Nara one day for a glimpse of the Daibutsu ("Big Buddha") and Nara Deer Park. Oh, and what would our trip have been if we hadn't made it to Costco?! (I'll tell you, it would have been a lot quieter, less crowded, and about 20 pounds lighter. But anyway.) Let's see some pictures!

The weather was impeccable for our tour of Osaka Castle!
Making friends at Nara Deer Park
No language barrier here!

Todaiji Temple, home to the world's largest bronze Buddha.

We saw some really amazing foliage in Osaka.


I mean, fall colors like you wouldn't believe!

From what I could tell, Osaka is basically the comfort food capital of Japan. We're talking lots and lots of battered and deep-fried comfort. For Thanksgiving dinner, we ended up at a takoyaki and okonomiyaki restaurant. Nothing says "holidays" like battered octopus!

D&H. We were hoping to see a few Geisha, but alas, they eluded us. Fun fact time! There were two very important misunderstandings re: Geisha that were corrected during our Kyoto trip earlier in the year. #1: Geisha, contrary to popular belief, are not, how shall I say it, ladies of the evening. They are actually highly-established, well-trained, and incredibly talented entertainers, respected for their ridiculous adeptness at all things Japanese. Calligraphy, origami, kimono, tea ceremonies,  traditional dance, and song are all a part of their nightly routine. Oh, and let's not forget the witty banter. Unfortunately, dinner with a Geisha performance will set you back a couple hundred dollars, easy, which leads me to my next point...#2: Geisha are elusive as all get-out. I know, I know, Japan's supposed to be teeming with them, right? Sadly, it's kind of a dying lifestyle, so the ones who remain in the truly authentic geisha practice are in high demand. Due to being constantly gawked at by both foreigners and Japanese alike, and also to maintaining a demanding schedule, geisha are usually in a hurry and not keen on stopping for pictures with tourists in Pikachu t-shirts, go figure. So, we were happy enough just to see a few Geisha, darting through the narrow back-alleys of Kyoto like the soot sprites in Totoro.

Oh, and this cat latte! 
     As for Christmas, my copilot and I had a hankerin' for warm weather, so we made a 5-day trip to Bali, Indonesia. We drank cocktails from coconut shells and lay on the beach all day like bums. It was fantastic! We didn't venture too far from our hotel, but from what we saw, Bali is gorgeous, culturally fascinating, and the people are professionals of hospitality.

Oh yeah. I could make a home of this.
Our slice of beach.
The fresh fruit was abundant and so delicious!
And the drinks weren't bad, either.
Our jungle paradise!
In the hotel.
The banquet hall all fancied up for Christmas Eve dinner!
And look who made a surprise appearance!
Daniel studying crab behavior.
...And my personal favorite.
This was the furthest we ventured from our hotel. Jin, our superb taxi man, took us to Ungasan Beach on Bali's southern tip. As it's just near a big cliff, the only access is down a $15 ski lift-type ride owned by a beach club. Or so we thought! Jin showed us the locals' route, a scenic stairway down the cliff, right to the water's crystal clear edge--for free! This beach was by far the dreamiest I've ever seen. Thanks, Jin!
We hope to return to you someday, Bali!

     After Bali, we came back to our frigid apartment and celebrated a very chilly New Years in Kanazawa. Thankfully, our good friends Carson and Laura, a missionary couple from North Carolina, spent the evening with us. We made breakfast for dinner, watched Despicable Me 2 (highly recommend), and walked to the big local shrine around midnight, where hundreds--if not a few thousand--people gathered to ring in the new year and make a wish. Pretty spectacular sight.
     It was back to work for us the following week, and it didn't take long to settle back into our routine. Because the Japanese school year operates on a different schedule, we actually only have about a month and a half until graduation. Crazy! It'll be a little harder saying goodbye to the students this year, since we have been with them the full year now. But hey, welcoming new students is also a lot of fun. Looking forward to that in April.
     All right, that's all for now! Thanks for reading everyone! We miss you all and are already drawing up some preliminary plans for another summer visit to the States. Stay tuned!
I'll leave you with a few last pics:
The beautiful Matsumoto Castle just outside Nagano. Went here one weekend for a debate competition with my English club. We managed to squeeze in a little sightseeing!

On our way to church last weekend.

Our walking routes usually involve lots of alleys like this one.

Our Japanese bedroom has gotten a few upgrades, compliments of new bedding from Mom and Dad. Woo!

Oh. And this, I just couldn't resist.

Sayonara! We love you guys!